Saturday, 17 April 2021

EP Idea: Grime Look-Book (self-initiated brief)

OLD
NEW 

A couple of alterations to the Youtube Comments book brief. Have refined the outcome to one publication which references the grime scene, from two previously focusing on two different music scenes. This choice was made as I felt that with the focus being on just one outcome, the quality would most probably be better as you be able to build a wider variety of ideas refined to the one stylistic choice. Also being limited to have to book sessions in the workshops at uni I personally felt I wouldn't have been able to finish two outcomes to the standard I would have wanted. 

Lookbook/ magazine made from comments left under music event videos, i.e. rave scene book, grime scene book, Techno scene book.

These books would exaggerate the aesthetic of the scenes and energy within the music (i.e. high/low tempo) + the general mise-en-scene of the gigs in the different 'scenes'. 



 

Materials / Fabrics / clothing: 

  • avirex 
  • polyester 
  • complimenting colourways 
  • Nike air max - old bike adverts for reference 

The book could document the different style that has changed and transcended across the years of grime and garage music 

Different paper stock alongside tip ins of relevant fabrics/materials 

Content & Composition 


David Sorrenti

https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/xwej4a/davide-sorrenti-photography-the-get-up-stand-up-issue





Portrait

Crazy T La Cosa Nostra

Image from:
https://www.alamy.com/crazy-titch-at-la-cosa-nostra-under-18s-garage-rave-at-ocean-hackney-image8111115.html?pv=1&stamp=2&imageid=DDA06765-A017-4C32-949B-BE82B70FC07D&p=11043&n=0&orientation=0&pn=1&searchtype=0&IsFromSearch=1&srch=foo%3Dbar%26st%3D0%26sortby%3D2%26qt%3Dcrazy%2520titch%26qt_raw%3Dcrazy%2520titch%26qn%3D%26lic%3D3%26edrf%3D0%26mr%3D0%26pr%3D0%26aoa%3D1%26creative%3D%26videos%3D%26nu%3D%26ccc%3D%26bespoke%3D%26apalib%3D%26ag%3D0%26hc%3D0%26et%3D0x000000000000000000000%26vp%3D0%26loc%3D0%26ot%3D0%26imgt%3D0%26dtfr%3D%26dtto%3D%26size%3D0xFF%26blackwhite%3D%26cutout%3D%26archive%3D1%26name%3D%26groupid%3D%26pseudoid%3D%26userid%3D%26id%3D%26a%3D%26xstx%3D0%26cbstore%3D1%26resultview%3DsortbyPopular%26lightbox%3D%26gname%3D%26gtype%3D%26apalic%3D%26tbar%3D1%26pc%3D%26simid%3D%26cap%3D1%26customgeoip%3D%26vd%3D0%26cid%3D%26pe%3D%26so%3D%26lb%3D%26pl%3D0%26plno%3D%26fi%3D0%26langcode%3Den%26upl%3D0%26cufr%3D%26cuto%3D%26howler%3D%26cvrem%3D0%26cvtype%3D0%26cvloc%3D0%26cl%3D0%26upfr%3D%26upto%3D%26primcat%3D%26seccat%3D%26cvcategory%3D*%26restriction%3D%26random%3D%26ispremium%3D1%26flip%3D0%26contributorqt%3D%26plgalleryno%3D%26plpublic%3D0%26viewaspublic%3D0%26isplcurate%3D0%26imageurl%3D%26saveQry%3D%26editorial%3D1%26t%3D0%26filters%3D0


Simon Wheatly

Roll Deep - When I'm ere (music video)


Image(s) from: 
https://dontcallmeurban.com/portfolio/gallery

Simon Wheatley is an acclaimed photographer who spent twelve years documenting grime culture. He also has a book titled Don’t Call Me Urban! The Time of Grime spans the years between 1998-2010 which mostly documented grime artists and locals of Bow E3, a borough of East London.  





















Trench 

A music, style, and culture platform based in London dedicated to uncovering and uplifting the voices of now. 
For content enquiries, please use: editorial@trenchtrenchtrench.com 
For advertising enquiries, please use: advertising@trenchtrenchtrench.com

Trench Magazine

Trench magazines first edition of their magazine documents the iconic grime MC D Double E. One of the first grime mc's, some of D Double E's lyrics are as old as grime itself; still as relevant now as he was at the start of grime, D Double E release music under the title of D Double E, or in the Newham Generals collective. He was previously part of grime super-group N.A.S.T.Y crew alongside Footsie, Kano, Jammer, Bruza and Marcus Nasty. 

Editor’s Letter: Laura ‘Hyperfrank’ Brosnan

'I first came across D Double E in 2002 via hand-me-down cassette tapes from school friends, and was luckily sent classics like “Birds In The Sky” and “Serious Thugs” through MSN Messenger (as you can well imagine, it took about seven hours to download each track, but it was definitely worth it). Through online forums, I discovered the legacy of Risky Roadz, Practice Hours, and of course the catalogue of Eskimo Dance visuals—and D Double E stood out from the get-go. The first time I saw the Newham Generals MC perform live was in 2006; we were a small crowd of people who got to witness grime in its rawest essence at Dirty Canvas, in an art gallery next to Buckingham Palace. That was actually one of the first times I met JP, and we got talking over the gas from witnessing Skepta go back-to-back with Frisco and D Double. The atmosphere he created also inspired me to write and pick up a camera and capture the moments that weren’t being documented. Darren Dixon’s musical gift is important, but what really adds to his reputation is his humble and calm aura that unites everyone together. A legend in every sense of the word.'



I purchased a copy of this issue of trench magazine; printed on thin paper stock, and sold at the price of $0.01 + shipping, it's as if Trench is presenting; the community aspect is seen in the early day of grime, where you could only get hold of these monetarily low-value cassette tapes, but to people invested in the scene - tapes that were of huge worth, as to record that same tape (of a limited stock) would reduce the sound quality; but in the form of a low-cost magazine of which only a small number were produced. 

The collaged elements of the magazine create a very interesting composition in comparison to the descriptive type pages (including an interview with D Double E) - may consider using the same methods for some of the ages in my publication. 


Purpose

A publication documenting, the transitional phases of clothing seen throughout the three decades 'Garage' & 'Grime', originating in East London,  has been a source of music and its growth into a fashion style of its own. 

The book will present the prominence of particular footwear and outerwear that would become conducive of the grime scene and those who familiarise with it. The look-book will incorporate & accentuate these iconic items of clothing; through the use of relevant materials - used as page dividers and tip ins. 

Text from youtube comments and acclaimed lyrics/phrases related to the Grime scene will be used throughout the publication

The purpose of this book is to simply document a set of particular clothing trends that are pertinent to this growing subculture of music. 



Universal Sounds @ Alexander Palace 2001


2000's

A section of images of prominent Garage & grime MC's in 2000's era. Taken notice of outfits and materials which were commonly worn in this era. 





Kurupt FM: The History of Nike Air Max

A slightly satirical look back at the influence of the Nike Air Max trainer on the respective garage and grime culture from Kurupt FM (garage/grime artists) and other distinguished grime and and garage aritists. 


  • 'Like a new movement'
  • 'It was the fall of the loafer as we know it' 
  • Air max 95s - very exclusive / illusive 
  • 'It was lacing them up..putting them on..walking down road for the first time..it was the whole experience' 
  • 'Nike air max turned something that was a sports trainer into an art form' 
  • 'Like alloy wheels for your feet' 
  • 'It's culture..it's a part of a uniform that shows what walk of life your from' 
  • Grime emerged onto the rave scene in early 2000's - with a more aggressive and style of lyrics and cadence - 'it was a necessity' (d-double e) 
  • 'Fashion went hand in hand with this growing style of music' 
  • 'It's not just about what trainer but how you wear it' - open shoe & tongue up 

2010's

A section of images of prominent Garage & grime MC's in 2010's era. Taken notice of outfits and materials which are commonly worn and how these looks differ from 2000's typical aesthetic. And an increased exposure of the scene has or hasn't influenced the typical dress sense of people who familiarise with the grime scene. 


Trench Magazine 001


https://grmdaily.com/ghetts-conflict-of-interest-artwork/





Risky Roads Documentary
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2pQPVAavKA




Lord of the Mics Boiler Room London






Layout





COLLAGE AIR MAX 95'S + Type Experiments

Couple quick collages - just experimenting with visuals. will need to work out whether I want to deconstruct images like I have below for the publication. I feel a mix of warped and collage imagery alongside licensed images of artists and fabric/material tips in and page dividers and type experiments will bring enough diversity to the publications format to make an interesting read.

Developments:
  • Experiment with imagery 













Publication Experiments







Rounded Type
(unified across next couple pages)


Edited typeface to match colourway - blue toned down so that the composition is more even.

Same colourway as seen on the previous page to keep a sense of continuity between spread. 




Photoshoot for Publication 


Documenting shoes commonly worn by those associated with the grime. The use of Nike Air Max shoes are heavily documented being worn at raves etc of grime sets. This is documented in the documentary; Kurupt FM: The History of Nike Air Max. Photos shot by me at home studio. 

Nike TN Air Max Plus Blue White


Edited Images for Publication 
(PNG - No background)




Nike Air Max Deluxe Skepta 


Edited Images for Publication 
(PNG - No background)


Nike Shox TL Black Red Orange


Edited Images for Publication 
(PNG - No background)




Dayton DMX II 


Edited Images for Publication 
(PNG - No background)

Final Publication



























































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